As this page is copyrighted and formally registered, it is unlawful to make copies, especially in the form of printouts for personal use. 3.) This isn't a problem, as it's easier to move one of the aperture or shutter controls to a different value than it would be to twiddle with an electronic program shift knob. This locks focus and/or exposure as set at AE/AF-LOCK MODE and AE/AF-LOCK BUTTON in the SET UP Menu. Fake Shutter Sound 2 sounds like a sticky leaf shutter with no escapement that doesn't open, but closes. Press the Menu button, then scroll through the list that displays. Once set, press the shutter to start and stop rolling, 10 minutes maximum. As before, we're not quite level: Fuji X100 Electronic Viewfinder, Custom mode, idle. This magnifies the selected focus area when you press the rear control lever in manual focus mode. Set this mode with the rear DRIVE button. 2.) Press the DISP BACK button and you'll get whatever other items are selected in the Custom display section of the SHOOTING menu. The X100 focuses over the complete range, including macro, in MF mode. Thanks! Ken. The Fuji X100 has three finders: the optical finder (OVF), the electronic finder (EVF), and the rear LCD. It always gets the right exposure. (With CORRECTED AF FRAME set to ON, one of the two or three frames turns green.) This selects the scale for the focus bar at the bottom of the finder or rear LCD. Stand in the middle of everything; don't just shoot a panorama from one side of a room, unless you mean it. Avoid circularly-polarized filters because they don't polarize when facing backwards. With firmware version 1.10, it now shows the lowest Auto ISO ISO, not the highest as seen here in version 1.01. Set it to A as I do, and the shutter sets itself automatically. The Fuji X100 takes a few seconds to wake after it's gone to sleep. May 2012  Fuji X100 Review   More Fuji Reviews   All Reviews, see also Fujifilm's printed X100 Owner's Manual. I list the options in Specifications. I start with the battery and power, then mechanical items like straps, filters, hoods and caps, then cover the menu system and lastly how I shoot my Fuji X100. The EVF never clears the compensation scale out of the frame. This chooses the settings we want, and where we save and change them. It’s also true in terms of camera gear. Since I’ve grown so used to the ability to use one with every other camera I shoot with, I feel like the X100V catches up with that modern photographic amenity. google_color_bg = "FFFFFF"; The moving inner part of the lens is 43.25mm in diameter. It runs at about 24 FPS at idle and 48FPS with the shutter held. There's no RGB histogram, so let me know if you find one. I put a small piece of plastic electrical tape on the left side of my X100 to keep the plastic finish preserver of the LEICA strap from marring the softer finish of the X100. When I go to manual, I do it to get the same exposure for a bunch of shots, so leaving Auto ISO running means I have to stop what I'm doing and go disable Auto ISO. Therefore, instead of screwing with the macro mode menus, simply slide the focus mode switch to MF, and hold the AFL AEL button to focus. The real gotcha with this mode is that the histogram is not active in the OVF; there is merely a blank rectangle! You don't need to hold it; one tap and the X100 does the rest! The Fuji X100 prefaces all the file names with "S" so they won't fit in your usual file sorting with the rest of your shots. First, unscrew the front ring on your camera’s lens. Turn this off to let the sensor keep running if you need the histogram in the optical finder. The X100 defaults to a normal 100% setting, but I never use it. No big deal; just don't screw them in all the way. It also goes backwards or cancels operations in the menus. A much better way to get Vivid without losing the shadow detail is to shoot in Standard, and then in Photoshop, add 30% saturation, and use a curves layer to pull down the shadows a bit at around 25%, but leave the darkest part of the curve alone. The Fuji X100 works fine with the battery door open. Unlike any real LEICA, the Fuji X100 provides through-the-lens viewing with polarizers, grads, and any kind of filter. I use Adorama, Amazon, Ritz, B&H, Calumet, J&R and ScanCafe. The bad news is that the SELECT CUSTOM SETTINGS feature is almost useless because it only stores some very limited image settings, not the entire camera's state for every setting. It's not needed, as the superior highlight rendition of the Fuji X100 eliminates the need for the RGB histogram. My first digital SLR was a Fujifilm S2 Pro, which was a Nikon N 80-based film camera body, with digital elements “grafted” on. The 16:9 options throw away the tops and bottoms of your photos. Even if it worked, AFC stops focusing with a half-press of shutter — oops! Oops! I recommend them all personally.